RCR40 MANUAL: AC Fitment
This chapter describes how the air conditioning (AC) system is installed.
Start by determining the location and outlining your delivery ports on the dash sub structure. In order to install the evaporator, you will need to drill out the rivets securing the under dash square tube cross braces and remove them.
Drill out the ends with a hole saw and cut inside of the traced lines.
Trim off the hose locking features on the delivery ports. This can be done with a hack saw then file smooth.
Stack eight 1/4" washers on the forward mount stud.
Trial fit and finish file the pass through holes in the sub dash until the ports fit snuggly. Once fitted, mark the outlets and trim them flush to the dash surface.
Fabricate an "L" bracket to hang the blower end of the evaporator.
Install the jumper tube on the thermal valve. Do this by removing retention clip, "CAREFULLY" unwind the copper tube, straighten, install tube and reinstall clip. (Don't forget the "O" rings, and be sure to lubricate them with provided lube). Be very careful when tightening the fittings not to damage the evaporator core. You MUST use a wrench on the stationary section of the tube and make certain the stationary section does not receive any rotational load.
Now, the thermal probe needs to be inserted into the evaporator core prior to installation in the vehicle.
To do this, first locate the sticker (Yellow dot below) covering the entry port. Bend the probe end to be 4.0" long.
Photo on left is a disassembled evaporator to show what you will be accomplishing. You will be pushing the probe through the hole in the casing, through the black insulation foam and down 4.0" into the core.
Bend and lay the probe down smooth to the top of the evaporator and duct tape it in place. While not mandatory, It's a good idea to spray glue down a thin piece of foam to insulate the top of the evaporator from the top of the dash. Now install the two high pressure flex hoses and the heater hoses as shown down below. Again, be very careful when tightening the fittings not to damage the evaporator core. You MUST use a wrench on the stationary section of the tube and make certain the stationary section does not receive any rotational load.
If you wish to have the flapper gate adjustable, here is the suggested method.Trim down and install a push/pull cable ("choke cable") and install as shown.
Cut pass through hole in under dash for both the A/C and heater hoses to pass through. While putting the evaporator up into place, feed the tubes through the pass through hole and toward the front of the foot box.
Due to the thickness of the foot box front bulk head, the No 10 line will bottom out before it is properly torqued. To address this 0.060" (1/16") needs to be removed from either the line nut or the bulkhead fitting nut. In this example we chucked up the bulkhead nut and spun the 0.060" off of it. Please keep in mind, should you decide to shorten the tube nut, be certain to plug the tube end to keep debris out of the tube.
Using a little seam sealer around the outlets to ensure there is no under dash leakage (whistling) may not be a bad idea. Evaporator install complete.
Trace the outline of the plenum onto the dash. Determine, location of dash through fittings. Drill holes and install.
Trim as desired, then laying a bead of sealer and secure down with rivets or screws as desired. CAUTION: Make absolutely certain you do NOT drill into the evaporator while mounting your plenum. Use positive stops on your bits!
Second Generation Plenum The second generation plenum is bonded to the understide of the dash board, rather than to the dash sub structure.
Cut holes for the evaporator ports and the vent ports. Use sticky-back foam to seal between the plenum and the dash sub structure.
Determine desired location to install dash controls and the hot water valve in the delivery hose.
Determine appropriate length, pull the cable back and cut the outer casing. Reinsert the cable and create new fastening coil with needle nose pliers or the like. Click right pic for a closer look.
Test cycle the valve for proper operation.
Once the evaporator is installed, trim down the square tube "cross braces" to fit and reinstall by riviting back in place. Dress all your hoses and cable so they are secure and don't hang down.
With dash in place you can now connect the eyeball vent hoses to the through bulkhead fitting.
First prep for installing the tubes by trimming down the radiator sail panel where the tubes will run. Simply put, trim down the side that your steering wheel is on. The other side needs no modification. Mark a line 1.25" above the highest radiator mount holes and cut. File and chamfer to desired appearance. Mount the radiator utilizing rubber bushings/spacers and nyloc nuts on 1/4" fasteners. You're using the nyloc nuts so you do not have to draw the radiator tight. Only tighten to the point where you are starting to see deformation of the side flange of the radiator.
With one coolant tube removed, slide the long AC hoses into spinal column as shown, with the #10 tube in the lower position. Note RH drive cars have the hard lines on the RH side, LH drive on the LH. Determine desired location of tubes and drill bulkhead through holes. Install the bulkhead fittings and finger tighten tubes.
Install the trinary tube, determine mounting location for drier and mount. Install tubes finger tight. Don't forget to install the "O" rings. Left hand or right hand drive cars assemble exactly the same, only in mirror image.
Now mount the condenser. Do so by fabricating mounting brackets from the flat stock provided in the AC kit. Temporarily mount the brackets on the condenser and mark positions for drilling on chassis.
The brackets can be mounted above or below the pan. You can use the supplied fasteners, or for a cleaner look you may choose to use some button head allen bolts.
With the lower fasteners in place, determine fabrication needed for upper brackets as desired, mark and drill mounting holes . *** CAREFULLY***
Hang the condenser, install the tubes and tighten all tubes.
AC Compressor Install
You may need to drill out the mounting ear to accommodate the particular size mounting bolt being utilized.
When hanging the compressor, keep in mind belt alignment and clearance behind it.
Once you have all of your fitment done, removal of the lower forward ear makes hose routing and tightening a little easier. Note, this is not mandatory.
Install compressor hoses to spinal column hoses.
TRINARY SWITCH WIRING
Based on the type of thermostatic control you are utilizing, there are fundamentally two wiring approaches. This is determined by the grounding strategy. If you are using a thermostat that grounds to the block use the schematic on the left, and if you are using a powered thermostat use the one on the right. If you are using only manual control, simply eliminate the thermostat leg of the preferred schematic.
Food for thought...
You may want to consider making access points to the evaporator mounts. Just in case you ever need to remove it...